Contrasts

September 20, Ramadan ended with Eid or Eid ul-Fitr a 3-day Muslim holiday that marks the end of the Islamic holy month of fasting. Eid is an Arabic word meaning "festivity", while Fitr means "to break fast"; and so the holiday symbolizes the breaking of the fasting period. It is celebrated after the end of the Islamic month of fasting on the first day of Shawwal. (tip of the nib to Wikipedia)

Because of my teaching schedule I was able to slip away for 10 days which actually turned into 14 thanks to the Afghanistan Consulate in DC which failed to return my passport and visa in time for my scheduled flight. For my break, I chose to return to Vermont where I relished all opportunities to walk freely, drive my car and keep my own schedule. Not to mention brushing my teeth with tap water!

Last night I landed back in Kabul and its hot streets swirling with dust and debris. Today I taught my management and business principles class. We discussed the steps in making a business, or really any decision. Determining the problem, establishing and weighting criteria, and finally developing and analyzing alternatives and making a final selection. The alternatives for solving problems in Afghanistan are decidedly more complex than in my Vermont world. Poverty, violence and concerns about security all limit options. Not to mention the challenge of travel and access to places abroad.

I share with you some photos of contrast. Brown dry Kabul overflowing with life and street commerce and more sedate Burlington with its beaches and autumn foliage. Both capture me in many ways but my heart is home in Vermont.

Massoud, The National Hero

Last Wednesday was Massoud Day, a holiday to honor Ahmad Shah Massoud who was assassinated on September 9, 2001. Massoud played a significant role in driving the Soviets from Afghanistan, and with the rise of the Taliban in 1996 he again played the role of opposition leader. Some speculate that Osama bin Laden ordered the assassination just 2 days before 9-11 in order to solidify his support from the Taliban and guarantee their protection and cooperation.

The University was closed and our (international staff) travel was even further restricted than usual because no one was sure what would happen in Kabul City. As it turned out nothing happened that would have impacted us but we are all cautious.

The election results are still looming. I have heard two opinions regarding the outcome. One is that the international community must insist on a run off election in order to maintain credibility and stem a violent retaliation from the loser. The other view is that no one has the energy for another election, people would not participate, and discussions have already begun between the two top candidates to agree on roles for both in the government.

We shall see - October should be an interesting month in Afghan politics!

Kabul Now and Then

September 5, 2009
Kabul

Today I went with three University colleagues to Darulaman Palace. Built in the 1920s by King Amanullah Kahn after he returned from the UK intent on modernizing Afghanistan, the palace was built in the European neoclassical style and looks down Darulaman Road toward Kabul's center city. When King Amanullah Kahn was exiled by religious conservatives the building, originally intended as the seat of Parliament sat vacant. It was gutted by fire in 1969, renovated and then attacked and burned by Soviet forces in 1978. Afghan war lords completed destruction of this massive palace in the 1990's as they fought one another for control of Kabul. Today the building is an empty shell, with only a small corner used by NATO forces as an outlook.

Every day in Kabul I wonder what this city looked like before the Soviets, Mujahideen, and Taliban forces destroyed it's buildings and beauty. Because it is hard to answer that question or find images of Kabul pre-destruction, I decided to go back to my photos from 2006 to at least measure any progress in the past three years to rebuild this city. The overwhelming poverty is a constant reminder of our failure to improve the human condition, which pre-dates any modern destruction but I was able to document some progress - there is less scaffolding and more shops are open along the major routes. In addition, slowly some roads are being repaired, and pedestrian bridges (at least two) are being built across busy roads.

First Week of School

September 2, 2009
Kabul

Classes started this week. The University (American University of Afghanistan or AUAF) schedules day and evening classes to accommodate the approximately 80% of the student body who work during the day. However, this leads to really full evening classes and under enrolled classes in the day. I am teaching two courses - Introduction to Business and Entrepreneurship. My day session in Business has 2 students and the day session of Entrepreneurship only one, however, the evening classes are full. The day classes will probably be canceled which gives me too much unexpected free time during the week which I am trying to fill with some outside consulting work and work on the 10,000 women project (see www.auaf.edu.af).

Ramadan which is on-going through the month of September also presents some logistical challenges. The campus staff leave at 2pm every day and the late afternoon and evening classes are arranged to allow a 45 minute break for Iftar. According to Wikipedia, Iftar refers to the evening meal when Muslims break their fast. Iftar is one of the religious observances of Ramadan and is often done as a community, with people gathering to break their fast together. Iftar is done right after Maghrib (sunset) time.

Because sunset and thus Iftar occurs at a slightly different time every day, my classes also start and end at a different time every day! Ramadan ends at the end of September and then the schedule will settle down.

Here are some photos of the campus. It is not large but is great for me to be able to walk around. It is the only place I am able to walk, being out on the street is absolutely forbidden and I (and all other foreigners) am driven everywhere by a driver and an escort. During the election all guest houses were on "lock-down" and nobody was able to leave. I wasn't here yet, but everyone was going absolutely stir crazy. The restrictions are hard for many to get used to.

Kabul Kite Wars

August 29, 2009
Kabul

From the roof of Peach House (right)I have 360 degree views of Kabul. The building with the blue trim is an orphanage across the dirt road from the house. The boys in the orphanage and the boys who live on my side of the street are warring kites. The victor slices his opponent's kite. Then when the adults in the orphanage are otherwise occupied the losers scale the wall either into or out of the orphanage to retrieve their grounded kite! If you look carefully you can see three kites in one of these photos. My little camera can't pick them up very well. Also notice how high the orphanage walls are. Kite flying is not for the faint of heart!

It continues to be dry and hot with dust everywhere, coating every surface. The roads are dirt with the exception being the major routes through the city. The dust coupled with car exhaust obscures the mountains in a haze. The traffic is unbelievable - today was as congested as I have ever seen it. Like bumper cars at the fair going every which way and no lanes. Roundabouts can't even keep the drivers moving in the same direction. Yet, it seems to work in its own fashion - accidents don't seem to be a huge problem, and people get to where they need to go!

Friday August 28, 2009
Kabul

Arrived yesterday to a brand new airport which looks like a real airport and not a quonset hut - which was my memory from 2006. Kabul appears at first blush to be more pulled together - less rubble and more new construction. More guns too - trucks and SUV/tanks with men and guns at many intersections. Today at the grocery store there was a sentry on a raised platform across the street. Out my window I see yards of razor wire protecting our compound, and armed guards at our front gate (which was also the case in 06). The pictures above are from my bedroom window and the front balcony - you can see the razor wire in one and the courtyard in the other.

Friday and Saturday are weekend days so it is our opportunity to shop, rest and in my case prepare frantically for the first day of classes on Sunday. I have never taught Entrepreneurship before so am hoping to be at least one class ahead of my students! (Mike - if you are reading this I need you!) The other class is Principles of Business which is much more familiar to me.

My house is one of three faculty and staff guest houses. Mine is called Peach House - which was explained as we drove up and I saw the color. I'll send a picture of the front in the next post. There are three floors, with a total of 8 bedrooms, two kitchens and numerous bathrooms. My colleagues are mostly American - one Canadian and a woman from Kyrgyzstan. All are here for one year - some are on their second assignments. I am quite happy knowing I will be returning home in December for already I am missing all my favorite people.

August 27, 2009
Dubai

Arrived last night at 7:30 Dubai time - very easy entry. If you hold a US passport you don't need a visa, and after my passport was stamped I didn't even have to offer up my luggage for inspection. No one seemed concerned about what I was bringing into the country. This morning I arrived at the airport at 9 am to catch my 11:30 flight to Kabul only to discover that it has been delayed 2 hours. Be thankful, a fellow passenger told me, that it wasn't canceled - something that happens on a regular basis.

I am eager to get to Kabul and stop traveling. I am also eager to meet my colleagues, visit the campus and get a sense of the student body.

It is hot and humid in Dubai and I expect only slightly cooler weather in Kabul. Hard on this westerner used to wearing sleeveless tops, capris and sandals to put on long sleeves, long pants and a head scarf!

The photos were taken from my hotel room at 6 this morning. Dubai, from what I could see during my cab rides to and from the airport is all new construction in the desert. An amazing contrast from New Dehli - my transfer point in 06 when donkeys, cows and dogs roamed between the terminal buildings. Here in Dubai there is no live stock in sight - only cement, cars and luxury hotels.