Massoud, The National Hero

Last Wednesday was Massoud Day, a holiday to honor Ahmad Shah Massoud who was assassinated on September 9, 2001. Massoud played a significant role in driving the Soviets from Afghanistan, and with the rise of the Taliban in 1996 he again played the role of opposition leader. Some speculate that Osama bin Laden ordered the assassination just 2 days before 9-11 in order to solidify his support from the Taliban and guarantee their protection and cooperation.

The University was closed and our (international staff) travel was even further restricted than usual because no one was sure what would happen in Kabul City. As it turned out nothing happened that would have impacted us but we are all cautious.

The election results are still looming. I have heard two opinions regarding the outcome. One is that the international community must insist on a run off election in order to maintain credibility and stem a violent retaliation from the loser. The other view is that no one has the energy for another election, people would not participate, and discussions have already begun between the two top candidates to agree on roles for both in the government.

We shall see - October should be an interesting month in Afghan politics!

Kabul Now and Then

September 5, 2009
Kabul

Today I went with three University colleagues to Darulaman Palace. Built in the 1920s by King Amanullah Kahn after he returned from the UK intent on modernizing Afghanistan, the palace was built in the European neoclassical style and looks down Darulaman Road toward Kabul's center city. When King Amanullah Kahn was exiled by religious conservatives the building, originally intended as the seat of Parliament sat vacant. It was gutted by fire in 1969, renovated and then attacked and burned by Soviet forces in 1978. Afghan war lords completed destruction of this massive palace in the 1990's as they fought one another for control of Kabul. Today the building is an empty shell, with only a small corner used by NATO forces as an outlook.

Every day in Kabul I wonder what this city looked like before the Soviets, Mujahideen, and Taliban forces destroyed it's buildings and beauty. Because it is hard to answer that question or find images of Kabul pre-destruction, I decided to go back to my photos from 2006 to at least measure any progress in the past three years to rebuild this city. The overwhelming poverty is a constant reminder of our failure to improve the human condition, which pre-dates any modern destruction but I was able to document some progress - there is less scaffolding and more shops are open along the major routes. In addition, slowly some roads are being repaired, and pedestrian bridges (at least two) are being built across busy roads.

First Week of School

September 2, 2009
Kabul

Classes started this week. The University (American University of Afghanistan or AUAF) schedules day and evening classes to accommodate the approximately 80% of the student body who work during the day. However, this leads to really full evening classes and under enrolled classes in the day. I am teaching two courses - Introduction to Business and Entrepreneurship. My day session in Business has 2 students and the day session of Entrepreneurship only one, however, the evening classes are full. The day classes will probably be canceled which gives me too much unexpected free time during the week which I am trying to fill with some outside consulting work and work on the 10,000 women project (see www.auaf.edu.af).

Ramadan which is on-going through the month of September also presents some logistical challenges. The campus staff leave at 2pm every day and the late afternoon and evening classes are arranged to allow a 45 minute break for Iftar. According to Wikipedia, Iftar refers to the evening meal when Muslims break their fast. Iftar is one of the religious observances of Ramadan and is often done as a community, with people gathering to break their fast together. Iftar is done right after Maghrib (sunset) time.

Because sunset and thus Iftar occurs at a slightly different time every day, my classes also start and end at a different time every day! Ramadan ends at the end of September and then the schedule will settle down.

Here are some photos of the campus. It is not large but is great for me to be able to walk around. It is the only place I am able to walk, being out on the street is absolutely forbidden and I (and all other foreigners) am driven everywhere by a driver and an escort. During the election all guest houses were on "lock-down" and nobody was able to leave. I wasn't here yet, but everyone was going absolutely stir crazy. The restrictions are hard for many to get used to.